Along our journey, we learned to take care of mom, yet we still managed to accomplish everything we wanted to do. We made friends everywhere we went, and typically with the staff. One of the stops on our Braveheart tour was Stirling. We overnighted at a B&B in the center of town.
We visited the castle, Jeff made me stand on the exact spot where Mary Stuart was crowned, so that he could memorialize my imagined nobility for posterity. We also visited an amazing house in town, a preserved medieval home which I loved!
We found dinner at a nearby Italian restaurant, begrudgingly served to us by a staff with a highbrow and a chastising scowl, in punishment, I’m sure, for not having arranged reservations two months prior. This treatment despite the fact that the place was empty but for ourselves and one other table, they must have also been crude Americans unaccustomed to late night dinners.
Following dinner, mom plead exhaustion and we saw her safely back to our B&B, then went off to explore what nightlife there was to be found in Stirling, Scotland. Jeff and I found a pub, aptly named the Settle Inn. It was a small, ancient structure, which seemed to list a bit towards the right, giving the impression that it had been there long before civilization…just our kind of place. We “settled in” up at the bar and struck up a conversation with Jim, the owner, and his patron friends, Val and Stewsie.
This friendship began with my rather foolish bravado in trying out the local cider brew, apparently it is not for the genteel set. After coughing and sputtering, I asked to try the more American version, Woodchuck. After tasting both I decided upon a glass of the “boring stuff”. They all found this hilariously funny and I don’t believe we paid for another glass all night.
As it happens, there was a rival Football match (soccer game to us yanks) that day between the two favored teams, The Celtics vs The Rangers. And there was a particular group of fans in the back who had spent the day enjoying the game, getting “pissed” in the process. So rowdy were they, in fact, that the owner personally administered several dire threats of ousting, humiliation and various other imprecations should they not curtail their profanity and savagery, for the benefit of the newly come American Guests in the house. To their credit, they did as ordered with each threat administered, however, the decibel would rise every so often, inciting another round of threats and admonitions.
At the point that the conversation turned towards a debate of the attributes and weaknesses of both Football teams, I found myself distracted and idle and wandered off to the retro jukebox, located halfway between the front room, and the new addition to the back of the bar. The music which had thus far been inflicted on us from the idleness of the unpaid machine was not at all inspiring, and I felt it necessary to “turn it up”.
Flipping through the offerings, Lynard Skynard, Beatles, Rolling Stones, CCR, REM, I made a few selections, can’t now remember what they were, but they must have been appreciated as all of a sudden, I found myself surrounded by a group of large, muscle -bound Scots, each bearing different variances of the same besotted drunken grin, thus dispelling any anxiety I may have otherwise experienced.
“What’ll it be lass?”
“Och the Stones, Gimme Shelter…Beatles, Long & Winding Road, excellent choices hen!”
“Sirs, is there no local music in this machine? What would you choose?” I asked in exasperation, Scottish culture was on my list. I wanted to live it up in spades!
“Oh darlin, ye’re doin’ just fine!” I took this to mean they appreciated my taste in music and I should continue choosing songs that I like.
At this point, it occurred to me that my loving and protective Gentlemen of a husband could not actually see me through this throng of Scottish behemoths. Himself also realized that he must come reconnoiter, thus to determine whether I was in good hands, as it were, or being handled, as it weren’t. It must have been a very intimidating march for him, not knowing if he would be required to protect my safety and honor against a dozen rough Scots.
My intrepid husband not missing a beat, however, hiked up his Ex Officio travel trousers and marched up to face the music, at the music box. The crowd of Scotts immediately parts, as the red sea, yet they all threw their arms around him in welcome. “Oh no mate, no harm intended! Your lady has great taste in tunes, we want her to choose our music!” I could see the relief on Jeff’s face as he realizes that he now does not need to factor in a trip to whatever passes for an urgent care facility in Stirling and we carry on choosing music, and Jeff event interjects with some of his favorite Dave Matthews hits and everyone is happy.
As our conversation continued with Jim, Val and Stewsie, inevitably the question arose as to where in the US were we from. Once our new friends learned that I was born and raised in WV, the three of them broke out into a verse of Country Roads by John Denver, incidentally, one of my favorites. I’m at a pub, in Central Scotland, and complete strangers are singing of my “home far away”. I totally cried. A lot
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